How to Bat-Proof Your Home: 5 Proven DIY Fixes Backed by Experts

Let’s be honest: bats don’t break in for pleasure. If they are there, your home is giving them exactly what they want: a place to stay, warmth, and easy access. And I’ve seen this happen more often than you might believe.

Bats can fit through spaces as small as half an inch. That’s not as thick as your pinky. So, even if your house looks sealed, little gaps around vents, soffits, or rooflines can be big openings. One of my clients had bats coming in through a missing screen in their attic vent. That was all. That was all it required.

But it’s not just the openings. They might also be drawn to the things around you. If there are standing water sources nearby (like birdbaths or clogged gutters), they’ll draw insects—which, for bats, means dinner. More bugs mean more bats.

They don’t want to scare you. They’re merely acting like animals do: looking for the easiest way to get food and stay safe. What is the true problem? Once they’re in, they often return year after year unless you do something about it.

If you want to stop bats for good, the first step isn’t traps or sprays—it’s understanding why they picked your home in the first place. That’s the foundation of every fix that follows.

Have you noticed where bats might be getting in? Look around—vents, chimneys, even tiny roofline gaps. What’s one spot you’re going to check today?

How to Find and Seal Every Entry Point (Even the Ones You Can’t See)

You need to figure out exactly how bats are getting in before you do anything else. No guessing. Not wishing. Looking at it for real. If you miss even one small space, they’ll come back right away.

Begin with the roofline. Cracks where the roof meets the siding, broken soffits, loose flashing, and open vents are the most common problems I notice. Chimneys and attic vents are also common problems. At dusk, use a torch and look for any activity. They’ll leave around sundown if there are bats inside.

A good trick? Stand outside for about 30 minutes after dark and watch for bats flying out of the home. That’s where they come out, which is your main entry point.

Now it’s time to seal. But here’s the problem: you can’t seal the door while the bats are still inside. First, you need to put in a one-way exclusion mechanism (we’ll talk about it in the next part). Then, you can let them go safely and plug every gap.

Don’t cut corners when sealing. Use whatever works for the gap: heavy-duty caulk, metal mesh, or hardware cloth. Spray foam by itself doesn’t last long, especially when it’s exposed to the weather or pests.

Put screens or caps on your vents if you have them. High-quality silicone or expanding foam will fill in gaps in bricks or siding. Just make sure it’s weatherproof and safe for animals.

Most homeowners forget about the top parts of their homes. That’s why a ladder and a second pair of eyes can make a big difference.

The first thing you should do to protect yourself is seal. You’re not fixing the problem if you skip it or rush through it. You’re just giving bats a short break.

When was the last time you really looked at the roofline or attic vents? Take a torch and walk around slowly this weekend. What do you see?

Use One-Way Exclusion Devices (The Only Humane Way to Get Bats Out)

Don’t seal the entrance points right away after you find them. If bats are still inside, blocking those entrances keeps them trapped. That’s not just cruel, it’s also against the law in many locations. You need a device that only lets one person in.

These are simple but brilliant. They allow bats out, but they don’t let them come back in. It’s like a turnstile for animals. You may buy these online or create one yourself out of flexible plastic tubing or netting. I’ve used clear plastic tubing on jobs before. It works great because it doesn’t terrify the bats and blends in with the building.

Put the gadget over the main exit. go it there for at least five to seven nights, which is long enough for all the bats to go. Keep an eye out; if you don’t see any activity after a few nights, they’re probably gone.

Important: exclusion should only happen after the maternity season, which is different in each area. In the U.S., the safest time is from late summer to early autumn. If you keep bats out while they have babies inside, the infants will die. This is not only terrible, but it will also cause a whole new problem (smell, infestation, biohazard).

After you’re confident they’re all gone, shut up every opening. That’s the fix that will last.

Fact check tip: The U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service and several state agencies say that this is the only legal and effective approach to get rid of bats.

The main point is that one-way exclusion works because it is legal, treats the animal with respect, and gets the job done. Traps, poison, and sealing too soon are all dangerous, unlawful, or both.

Is there a place near you where bats might be nesting right now? Before you put anything up, check your local wildlife site or phone an expert nearby. You might not believe timing is that important.

Change What’s Attracting Bats in the First Place (Most People Skip This)

Some homes still draw bats year after year, even after sealing every hole and putting in exclusion devices. Why? Because the area around your house is helping them, not hurting them.

Let’s begin with bugs. Every night, bats devour hundreds of invertebrates, mostly moths, mosquitoes, and beetles. If your garden is a banquet, they’ll stay. A big one is standing water. Birdbaths, clogged gutters, puddles, and even lawns that are too wet are all great places for mosquitoes to breed. If you fix those, you stop the feeding supply.

Next, there’s light. Some outdoor lights, especially those with warm tones, attract a lot of bugs, which in turn attract bats. Change to yellow or “bug-safe” LEDs, or even better, utilise lights that only turn on when you need them.

Are trees too close to your roof? Cut them down. Bats often use branches that dangle down to get to higher places, like gables or attic vents. You make it tougher to get to your house if you take that runway away.

A lot of individuals skip this stage because they don’t think it’s important. But what about the homes that don’t get bats back next year? They did this part right.

If your attic is unusually warm or poorly ventilated, your HVAC system might also be giving bats easy warmth and airflow access—something they instinctively look for when choosing roosting spots.

The lesson is that you’re not just keeping bats out; you’re also making your home seem bad from the outside. That’s how you stop the loop.

What is one thing in your garden right now that could be attracting bats? Is it a birdbath, a bright light on the porch, or maybe an ancient tree branch that is close to the roof? Choose one and deal with it this week.

Try What Real DIYers Swear By: Proven Bat Deterrents That Actually Work

Deterrents give your home an extra layer of safety once you’ve sealed it and gotten rid of the bats. On their own, these aren’t miraculous answers, but when used with the methods above, they help discourage bats from finding your place.

First, let’s talk about ultrasonic repellents. These plug-in gadgets make high-pitched sounds that bats don’t like but people can’t hear. Are they foolproof? No. But genuine homeowners, especially those with older homes, have had good success when they use them wisely, such near known entry points or in attics.

This tip came from a Reddit user on r/homestead:

“We plugged one in near the attic vent, and the fluttering stopped that week.”

After that, there are natural fragrance repellents. Bats don’t appreciate strong fragrances like peppermint oil, cinnamon, and cloves. Soaking cotton balls and putting them near old entry points or attic corners won’t injure anything and might keep any stragglers from coming back.

People talk a lot about mothballs, but here’s the thing: they’re poisonous and not safe for kids or pets. Don’t use them unless you have to in a remote, hard-to-reach area. Even then, be careful.

And last but not least, bat boxes. If bats are roosting close to your house, putting up a bat house 15–30 feet away can get them to go somewhere else. You’re not simply forcing them away; you’re giving them a safer, more controlled option that helps your yard too (they still eat the bugs, but not from your attic).

Deterrents aren’t the first thing you do; they’re the fifth. But they assist keep the long-term results by being used with sealing, exclusion, and cleanup.

Have you ever used ultrasonic, scent-based, or other types of deterrents? What worked (or didn’t work) in your space? Someone else who is thinking about the same fix might benefit from your feedback.

Lock It In: Final Steps to Keep Bats Out for Good

So now you’ve located the ways in, utilised humane exclusion devices, shut up all the holes, gotten rid of the things that attract them, and set up things that keep them away. That’s a good strategy, but here’s what makes fast solutions different from real results: Follow-through.

A lot of homeowners stop at step three and think the problem is fixed. But bats do the same things over and over again. If they slept in your attic once, they’ll remember how to get back and will keep trying for years.

This is how to remain ahead:

• Check sealed sections again every season, especially after storms or strong winds. A little fracture that opens again can ruin all your hard work.
• Keep outdoor lighting bug-proof and water sources to a minimum. In the summer, mosquitoes come back quickly.
• Keep the junk in your attic well sealed. Mice and other vermin might try to get in next, even if bats don’t.
• Keep track of when bat season starts and ends in your area. Know when it’s okay to act and when you shouldn’t leave them out.

And what if the problem starts to come back? Don’t put it off. The sooner you act, the easier it will be to stay in charge.

Bat-proofing isn’t something you do once; it’s a way of thinking. Your home stays sealed, tidy, and off the map for wildlife with just seasonal upkeep.

And don’t forget about drainage—clogged pipes or poor plumbing can lead to moisture issues, which can attract insects and wildlife over time, including bats.

Stop the Cycle — And Take Back Control of Your Home

Bats in the attic aren’t simply annoying; they mean that your home isn’t very safe. And the truth is, there isn’t one thing or quick remedy that will make everything better. But if you follow a system—find the entry places, let them leave safely, seal everything, cut off what attracts them, and install deterrents—you’ll never have to deal with the problem again.

You don’t need to pay for pricey pest control contracts or assume what to do. You only need a plan, a ladder, and the time to do it well.

Bats will go once you’ve closed all the doors and made your place unwelcoming to them. Then you’ll be able to sleep better knowing they won’t come back.

And if you want expert guidance, tools, or product recommendations you can trust, head over to Build Like New—we break down real fixes that actually hold up over time.

What happened to you?

Have you ever had bats in your house? What worked and what didn’t?

Or if you’re new, what’s your biggest worry or question?

Leave a comment below. Someone else might need to hear what you went through.

Disclaimer:  This article is for informational purposes only. Bat removal is regulated in many areas—always check local laws before taking action. If you’re unsure or dealing with a major issue, consult a licensed wildlife or pest control professional.

Build Like New does not provide pest control services and is not liable for misuse of tools or methods discussed.